What happens on Lerwick Up Helly Aa day?

The passing of winter and the lengthening of daylight hours have been celebrated in Shetland for centuries.

In the 1800s this important moment was marked by Lerwick residents dragging burning tar barrels through the streets. A celebration that was inherently dangerous. By the 1880s the festival was changing. Up Helly Aa as we know it was introduced along with a Viking Jarl’s Squad, torchlit processions and the burning of a replica longship known as a galley.

That tradition has continued ever since and grown so that there is now a whole season of fire festivals starting in early January and ending in mid-March. Lerwick Up Helly Aa, held on the last Tuesday of January, remains the largest and, for many, the most dramatic. The festival is led by the Guizer Jarl, or chief Viking, a huge honour for the chosen individual.

The Guizer Jarl is supported by a squad, all dressed in magnificent Viking-inspired suits made annually and only revealed on the morning of the event.

Each year Up Helly Aa attracts visitors from around the world, but what happens on Lerwick Up Helly Aa day? You’re about to discover and get an insight into why Up Helly Aa is so important to the community, and why it is about a lot more than Vikings.

Here is what to expect on Lerwick Up Helly Aa day...

This part of Up Helly Aa originates from the festival’s earliest days when a proclamation including instructions for participants, known as guizers, was pinned to the Market Cross in Lerwick. Despite the advent of digital communications, the proclamation or “bill” is still an important part of the Up Helly Aa tradition and is unveiled (very) early in the morning.

These days rather than instructions, it is more likely to include satirical commentary on Lerwick events and poke good-hearted fun at the Guizer Jarl and other prominent Shetland figures. Most see it as an honour to be named on the bill, and it is taken in good humour.

The bill is hand-painted the day before Up Helly Aa and kept secret until the last moment. If you want to see the unveiling, you’ll have to set your alarm. It is taken to the Market Cross by torchlight at 6am, and remains there all day.

The unveiling of the proclamation is just the start of festivities that go on for more than 24 hours. The film below explains more about the history of Up Helly Aa and why it's such an important festival.

Each year, Up Helly Aa is led by a Guizer Jarl and Jarl’s Squad, who spend the previous year intricately preparing suits, shields, axes and helmets for the day. In fact, the Lerwick Guizer Jarl will have spent 15 years serving on the voluntary committee that organises the event, with their day at the helm the culmination of all that effort.

Seeing the Jarl’s Squad in all its splendour for the first time is one of the most-anticipated moments of any Up Helly Aa. The earliest opportunity to do this comes when the squad forms ranks for the morning parade.

This sets off from the Islesburgh Community Centre on King Harald Street at 8.15am, accompanied by a pipe band and lots of Viking roars! The squad makes its way to the Toll Clock Shopping Centre, and Lerwick’s Royal British Legion, collecting the galley on route.

Like the Jarl’s Squad suit, every year a replica Viking longboat, or galley, is crafted over the winter by volunteers. A new galley is built annually and burnt at the end of the evening's torchlit procession.

In Lerwick, the hard work is done at the Galley Shed on St Sunniva Street, and the galley is painted to match the suits. On Up Helly Aa day, the morning parade heads along St Sunniva Street, where the galley is collected and then hauled alongside the squad, before being taken to its daytime “dock” next to the Bressay Ferry Terminal, where it stays until the evening.

We’ve already described the start of the morning parade when the squad is welcomed into the Royal British Legion for presentations. This part of the day is a private function, but visitors can wait outside or head towards the town centre and find a position to watch the next part of the celebrations.

Upon departing the Legion, the squad musters and the Vikings' parade continues along Commercial Road and the Esplanade heading to the Market Cross for 10am. Songs are sung at the cross, and the squad then marches along Commercial Street to be reunited with the galley at Bressay Ferry Terminal for the photos.

The importance of Up Helly Aa is reflected in the fact that for 24 hours the Guizer Jarl is given the freedom of Lerwick and is invited as guest of honour to a Town Hall reception. This is a real honour for the Jarl and the squad and is for invited guests only.

After the reception, the squad makes various visits around Lerwick, stopping at schools, care homes and supported living accommodation and other community hubs, giving as many locals as possible the chance to meet the squad.

The Jarl’s Squad then heads to Shetland Museum at 3.30pm, giving the public a chance to meet the Vikings and even try on the helmets and axes. While this is open to the public, it gets very busy. Those lucky enough to attend this event will hear the squad sing the Up Helly Aa Song and the squad’s own song (usually one of the Jarl’s favourites).

Music is played by the squad band, featuring some of the island’s exceptional musicians. Expect fiddles, guitars, mandolins, and accordions accompanying the choir of gutsy Viking singers.

The museum appearance is the Jarl’s Squad’s last public event before the evening procession.

Every year in Lerwick one lucky school pupil is selected by their peers to be the Junior Jarl, complete with squad. Like the adults, they make several visits through the day and take part in a torchlit procession and galley burning.

The junior procession starts at 5.30pm from Hillhead and the Junior Jarl’s Squad and other junior squads march towards King George V playing field, where the junior galley will meet its fiery end.

With almost 1,000 guizers carrying flaming torches, singing, and celebrating, the senior procession is spectacular.

At 7.30pm streetlights are dimmed for the Up Helly Aa light up. As flares are sparked and the torches are lit an atmospheric glow illuminates the night sky and the Jarl’s Squad marches up the ranks celebrating with all the guizers – so called because they wear disguises.

Only the Jarl’s Squad dress as Vikings but each guizer is part of their own squad and will be dressed to a particular theme – more on that later. Squads put a lot of effort into looking fantastic for Up Helly Aa and you should expect the unexpected and the spectacular.

The procession follows a set route, and spectators line the streets to witness the incredible event. From the pavement, you’ll feel the heat of the flames as the procession winds its way past you and will certainly get carried along by the enthusiasm and atmosphere.

It’s worth bearing in mind that it gets busy, and some people pick their spot well in advance. The best advice is to wrap up warm and wear waterproof clothing – there will be no postponement for weather!

At the end of the procession, which lasts around 30 minutes, the galley will be taken into the King George V playing fields and is surrounded by the guizers, each carrying a four-foot flaming torch. It’s a spectacular sight as almost 1,000 flames circle the galley carrying the Guizer Jarl.

Renditions of the Up Helly Aa Song and Galley Song follow as the Jarl steps out of the galley before the torches are thrown into it. The result is a splendid Viking pyre that sends heat and light upwards – signifying the passing of winter and the return of longer days.

As the galley burns, The Norseman’s Home is sung before the guizers depart and gather at their own squad huts.

If you thought the burning of the galley was the culmination of Up Helly Aa, think again. Dramatic as it is, the fiery procession is just the start of a long night of feasting dancing, and merriment. It really is an all-night party.

To experience the celebrations, you’ll need to a ticket for one of the Up Helly Aa halls. There are 11 halls open on Up Helly Aa night, each hosting a private party. It is worth keeping an eye on news websites in the months before Up Helly Aa for announcements about when tickets go on sale. They do sell out but sometimes returns become available in the run-up to the night so you may get lucky and get a last-minute ticket.

Each hall has its own musicians performing, and guests are encouraged to take part in dancing. There will also be an array of food with warming soups, bannocks, pies, cakes, and fancies to keep everyone fuelled through the night.

And there will be entertainment that is unique to Up Helly Aa. Let’s explain more…

Remember there is only one Jarl’s Squad. Led by the Guizer Jarl it usually comprises around 50 members in Viking finery. All the other squads, about 45 of them with an average of around 20 members, will be dressed in fancy-dress costumes (or suits, as we like to call them).

As well as looking fabulous, each squad prepares an act. This might be a dance to the biggest tunes of the year, a performance based on popular culture or a skit on local current affairs. One thing is certain, there will be variety! And this show is taken on the road. Every squad must attend every hall, in a specific order, and perform its act for the guests at the respective venues.

Once at the halls, the squads enter a waiting room before being called onto the dancefloor to perform their act. They stay in the hall afterwards and mingle and dance with the guests before moving on to the next hall. Spare a thought for the young “fiddle box carriers” who have the task of rounding up squad members and cajoling them along to the next hall.

The squads’ night is not over until they have performed at each of the 11 halls ­– which is usually at breakfast time on Wednesday morning. Up Helly Aa requires lots of stamina.

And then it’s time for rest. You should now understand why the day after Lerwick Up Helly Aa is a Shetland public holiday.

If you're left wondering how that all works - check out our What the Helly Aa? film below.

As the highest profile squad, the Jarl’s Squad also tours the halls performing their own squad song ­– picked by the Guizer Jarl and accompanied by the squad musicians.

After performing, like the other squads, they will also stay at each hall and dance with the guests. This gives ticketholders an excellent opportunity to witness the craftsmanship that goes into creating the suits – and dance with a 21st-century Viking.

If you're in Lerwick for Up Helly Aa this year, why not check out these local events...

• Up Helly Aa Craft Fair
• Taste of Shetland Up Helly Aa Food Market
• The Fiery Sessions
• Viking Life in Shetland Tours
• Up Helly Aa Through the Years (1900-1965)
• Old Scatness Broch Tours
• Sumburgh Head: Lighthouse, Visitor Centre and Nature Reserve (open 25-31 January)
• For live music in Shetland, see the Shetland Music Live Facebook page