Whalsay – a perfect summer adventure

Sunshine danced on the water and the boat’s wake glowed turquoise. The bairns jumped excitedly, trying to catch a glimpse of Whalsay as we approached the harbour. This isn’t their first trip to the island, but it is the first in many years and they were too young to remember much about previous trips.

Whalsay was my home when I first moved to Shetland. Located east of the Mainland, this island of around 1,000 inhabitants is known as ‘The Bonnie Isle’. It doesn’t take long to see why it earned this name.

Fields of wildflowers moved with a gentle breeze, the landscape a tapestry of green, yellow and purple. On the hills, heather was blooming, lending colour to the rich brown shades of earth and peat.

We were visiting during the "Whalsay Summer Days" week in July. This event was inspired by Unstfest a popular annual occasion in Shetland’s most northerly island.

This was the second year of the summer days, hostedthe same week as the Whalsay sailing regatta so the two events complement each other. Holly, one of the organisers, said the week was a huge success.

“It really has shown what a super peerie community Whalsay is. We really tried to put on activities that would suit all ages and have a wide range. Folk and businesses from within and outwith the isle helped to make the summer days happen – from crafts, sports, bus tours, play park and beach meetups, bannock making, bonkers bingo, chocolate workshops, net mending, sauna, for knitting, food and ice cream trucks, colour fun run, slip and slides… the list goes on!”

Our first stop was the Hanseatic Booth, a böd once used by German merchants, which dates back to the 16^th Century. Inside this beautifully restored building are displays detailing the years when this was a trade hub for merchants. These traders originated from places like Hamburg, Bremen and Lubeck.

From the window, we saw the waterfront where traders’ boats would have arrived. Today the harbour remains central to island life, with large and small fishing boats moored in the sheltered waters. Sailboats weaved their way through regularly, returning from the morning’s race.

During Whalsay Regatta week there are many races and events for different boat sizes and types.

Sailing lessons were offered to novices with the incentive that participants could take part in the races the following year.

There was also an eela (a rod-fishing competition) where 22 boats were out with those on board trying to catch the biggest fish or the greatest number of species. The eela is simultaneously laid back and fiercely competitive.

Often crews include multiple family members, and it is common to see young children out on the boats. Favourite fishing spots are sometimes kept secret with folk trying to conceal their destination from watching boats.

At the end, crews come together for their catch to be judged and the awards ceremony. Following the formalities competition rivalries are put to one side and folk can go for food and drinks in the boating club.

From Symbister we took the winding road around the island to meet up with friends, stopping to pick up chutney and fudge from the Whalsay Made honesty box. Later we went to Hammister Beach to go “hokin fur crabs”. This was one of many such drop-in events as part of the Summer Days.

Throughout the week, several picnics and beach events are open for anyone. This allows folk to meet and take part in events together.

As we explored the island, everybody we spoke to was very positive about the week. The slip and slide the previous day had been a particular success. The fire brigade provided their services to keep the slide wet and it sounded like every child on the island had been there and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Before getting the ferry home we stopped to meet Ann Marie, the creator of Peerie Ooricks, who was running a needlefelt workshop for making heart bunting.

Ann Marie said, “There has been such a buzz the whole week, everyone is smiling and it has brought everyone together and there’s been folk visiting from other places too, it's been a real hive of activity.

“I love the community spirit of Whalsay, and how everyone looks out for each other. There has been so much local support for all the events and activities.”

Our final stop was Whalsay Heritage Centre, a volunteer-run local museum in the former laird’s home. One room is dedicated to a permanent display about the island’s fishing industry past and present. The second room has an exhibit that changes every year.

The 2024 display is about wool and textiles with a vast collection of traditional and modern knitting which goes far beyond what you might expect, to include art and sculpture inspired by island knitting traditions.

The heritage centre offered a guided bus tour around the island. The volunteers explained these had been a huge success and that many people on the tours were local folk wanting to hear stories and learn new things about their home.

As we boarded the ferry back to the Mainland, the bairns chatted about all they had seen and done. It is amazing just how much you can pack into one day out!

The Whalsay Summer Days feel like they encapsulate what is special about Shetland communities. This is a locally led event with events created around locals’ favourite part of island life and culture. People from other parts of Shetland, and further afield, are welcomed and included in the celebrations.

This sense of pride and the passion for local stories and traditions, combined with the inclusive and welcoming atmosphere, made me fall in love with Shetland when I moved here.

It is a love that grows and is reinforced by days like this.

To plan a day trip to Whalsay you'll find everything you need in our Area Guide