Viking Islands: Shetland's Norse heritage

The first Norse settlers arrived in Shetland between 800 and 850 AD. A population increase in Scandinavia during this time, combined with all inheritance going to the oldest child, meant many younger people didn’t have land. Many set out to sea looking for somewhere to farm, a new place to call home.

Shetland remained part of the Norse Empire until 1469, and this period has affected many elements of life here. Despite being part of Scotland for over 550 years there is a distinctly Scandinavian feel to Shetland’s culture.

One of the most visible elements of our Norse history is in our place names. These names are often descriptive, telling us about the geographical features, people or activities of each place.

Some words occur often. For example, wick is a square-shaped bay, and voe is a narrow inlet of seawater. There are frequently additional details, so Lerwick is a square bay but the start of the name tells you that there is mud or clay in the bay.

Land with bister or ister were farms. Sometimes, individuals are named. Gulberwick translates as Gulbera’s Bay. These names give a lovely feel of being in an inhabited landscape. So whenever I walk along Gulberwick Beach, I wonder about Gulbera, what her life would have been like in this place so many years ago.

Unst is thought to be where Vikings first set foot in Shetland. The village Haroldswick is named after Harald Fairhair who is said to have landed here in the 9^th century. The remains of around 60 longhouses have been found on this island alone, the highest concentration anywhere in the world.

Discoveries from these excavations were used to design a replica longhouse where you can get a feel for what these dwellings might have been like. Alongside this is the spectacular Skidbladner, a full-size replica longship. Its design is based on the Gokstad ship, which was discovered in a Norwegian burial mound. If you visit the Unst Boat Haven after exploring the longship you will notice how the Viking ships inspired the traditional Shetland boat.

One of the most popular places to follow in the footsteps of the Vikings is Jarlshof. This incredible site in the South Mainland has evidence of around 4,000 to 5,000 years of inhabitation so you can walk through Shetland’s history from the Neolithic up to the time of Scottish lairds.

The longhouse was occupied for around 12 generations and is mentioned in the Orkneyinga Saga. It is incredible to sit around the ancient fireplace and imagine all those who might have gathered here before.

Perhaps the most visible part of our Viking heritage is our spectacular Up Helly Aa fire festivals. These take place between January and March every year and celebrate the returning light after a long winter.

Each one is unique, reflecting the different people and communities involved but they all share some key features.

The procession is comprised of different squads of guizers, people in disguise. Each person in the procession carries a flaming torch.

The heat and light from the procession are incredible and the wild weather at this time of year can make it very dramatic, with sparks flying with the wind. Costumes, often referred to as “suits” vary between squads and are different each year but the Jar’ls Squad are always Vikings.

The head of the Jarl’s Squad, the Guizer Jarl, chooses a Norse figure or story to be the main imagery of the day, and the squad costumes reflect this.

Preparing these outfits takes time and care, with regular meetings throughout the year.

Each community builds a galley for their respective Up Helly Aas, and the Guizer Jarl riding in the galley is the focal point of the procession.

The various squads parade through the streets, singing the Up Helly Aa Song, until they gather around the boat and throw their torches onto it. Seeing the galley engulfed in flames, surrounded by cheering crowds is incredible.

After the burning the celebration continues at community halls. Each hall has food and drinks for the guests and every squad visits the halls in turn, putting on a show for enthusiastic audiences.

These community events bring warmth and light to these last months of winter. They’re important local events, but they also attract folk from all around to watch the spectacle, and there is joyful interaction between the crowd and the guizers as folk call out to people they know.

Many of the squads’ costumes relate to local events or well-known characters in Shetland social life, so there is often laughs and comments from the crowd when these are recognised. But it isn’t just the events themselves that brighten up the winter darkness, it is the gathering of the community to plan them.

The meetings to build the boat, make the torches, and choreograph the day’s events, all bring people together. They create and strengthen community bonds in an ongoing celebration of social life that also connects us to our Viking history.