As frequent visitors to Roesand (known locally as Zoar), my friend Igor and I were keen to tick another of Shetland's red sand beaches off the list – and the North Mainland offers plenty. Up for a challenge, we’d made conquering Ronas Hill and visiting Da Lang Ayre our top summer priority.
This formidable 7-hour hike is not to be underestimated, but an unrivalled vista rewards those prepared to tackle the trail in this beautiful part of Shetland's North Mainland.
Da Lang Ayre
The name ‘Da Lang Ayre’ derives from Shetland dialect, where ‘da’ means ‘the’, ‘lang’ means ‘long’, and ‘ayre’ refers to a shingle beach. Da Lang Ayre is relatively isolated, even by Shetland standards, and can be found on the west side of Ronas Hill in Northmavine. It’s renowned for its distinctive blushed copper sands, created by the erosion of the towering red granite cliffs which flank the beach, rising 210m above. Stretching over one kilometre (0.6 miles) in length, the ayre is Shetland’s longest beach.
Its beauty is matched only by its seclusion, with the arduous hike demanded of a visit keeping it off the radar of most travellers. Reaching Da lang Ayre requires scaling Ronas Hill (Shetland’s highest elevation of 450 metres) not once, but twice, and involves descending steep-sided ravines and navigating mist-prone trails. It’s also accessible by sea.
Given the length of the route, the hike demands most of your day, and ideally, clear skies to fully reap the rewards of your efforts. Please remember that the weather can change quickly and you should always be prepared for the elements (check out this blog post with guidance for walkers).
Unspoilt views
We were lucky that a glorious August day presented the perfect conditions for adventure. We set off from Lerwick bright and early, embarking on the hour-long drive to Collafirth. You can shave off a good chunk of the initial ascent by driving up a narrow, hard-surfaced track, and parking at the Collafirth Hill masts.
While no marked path was offered, Google Maps ensured smooth navigation while 4G connectivity lasted, but beware, as much of the route contains unexpected boggy patches.
The first leg of our journey took an hour, bringing us to the Neolithic Cairn found at the summit’s peak. On a clear day, this vantage point offers unspoilt views of Shetland, spanning as far as Fair Isle, Shetland’s southernmost island.
Eager to experience this, we scrambled up the last stretch of hill. Unfortunately, we fell victim to Ronas Hill’s notorious low-lying mist which obscured the blue skies that had greeted us at the trailhead. As visibility diminished, so did our hopes of reaching da Lang Ayre. Not keen on navigating unforgiving terrain in misty conditions, we considered turning back.
However, in true Shetland fashion, the weather turned once again, this time in our favour. The sun broke through the clouds, illuminating the golden cliffs of Heylor across the fjord as we descended the west side of Ronas Hill.
The first glimpse of the iconic red sand was mesmerising. The glistening azure of sky and sea merged with lush green hills and scarlet shores...
The first glimpse of the iconic red sand was mesmerising. The glistening azure of sky and sea merged with lush green hills and scarlet shores, forging the stunning panorama that greeted us at the summit, and swiftly overshadowed our earlier disappointment. We settled on the Stonga Banks to eat lunch allowing plenty of time to marvel at the scenery before we headed down to the red sand.
A small gully lies at the southern end of the beach serving, as the only landward access point. A rope is in place to assist with the steepest section of the clough, but great care must be taken in making the descent.
Sculpted by the relentless forces of the North Atlantic, the grandeur of the looming amber cliffs is forced into striking perspective when gazing upward from the shore. Despite the sun’s warmth, the wind remained a powerful presence, fuelling the boisterous surf that hurled rattling pebbles upon the shore, grasping them again with each retreating wave. Dodging a few swoops of nesting bonxies (great skuas), we trekked the length of the beach and back.
Leaving the ayre behind, it was once again an uphill battle. Trudging from sea level to the highest point in the isles over a short, steep stretch of heathery turf, you’ll rapidly gain elevation, and regular breaks are necessary. Beware that there is a lack of mobile data so it’s important to have map routes saved beforehand (or take an OS map).
Allowing ample time to explore the ayre itself, our adventure totalled seven hours. I misjudged the difficulty of this walk and did not appreciate just how long it would take, but my only disappointment was missing out on Frankie’s fish and chips before closing time!
It’s a reminder that you always need to be prepared when exploring Shetland. If I were to visit again, I’d be more prepared and take midge spray, as the shelter of the hills concocted a haven for midges.
Discover more fabulous walks in Shetland.