Inspired by literature: exploring Lerwick's lanes and lodberries

Exploring the lanes of Lerwick, and the harbourside lodberries is one of my favourite things to do in Shetland's capital. You get such a lovely feel of what the old town would have been like.

Each spring, Lerwick's lanes are one of the first places to experience the flowers and buds that signal the new season’s arrival. On a fine day, it is a place of stillness and birdsong, with views stretching over the water to the island of Bressay.

But these are also places steeped in history and stories and Douglas Sinclair’s book, Old Lerwick Lanes and Lodberries provides a fascinating account of these special places.

One of the first things you notice about the lanes is that many of the street signs include two names. In 1845 the lanes and lodberries were renamed by the police commissioner as part of an attempt to modernise the town.

Like the Norse place names, familiar around Shetland, the original street names often referred to features of the place or people who lived there.

Despite 'modernisation' many continued to use and remember these old names rather than adopting the updated ‘modern’ names. The convention stuck, and both names appear on the signs today.

I love how the social history of places in Shetland is often visible in names, maps and stories. Sinclair’s book adds depth and detail to these clues of the past. Bringing to life the way of life in the lanes’ past and the folk who lived there.

Lodberries are the beautiful and distinctive waterfront buildings found overlooking Lerwick Harbour at the south end of the town.

Built from the 1730s onwards, the buildings were warehouses extending into the sea to help facilitate trade with boats. The name lodberrie is derived from Old Norse and translates to flat landing place.

The original lodberries were flat rocks at the water’s edge used by traders. You can still see those stones along the shore between the buildings.

Some of the lodberries still have evidence of their working days, with hooks and chains above the doorways for lifting heavy goods from ships, and slatted windows on upper floors which allowed air to circulate to aid fish drying.

Under your feet as you walk along the waterfront is some of Lerwick's hidden history. A network of smugglers' tunnels were discovered by road crews while digging to create the current road. While the legal trade was happening in the Lodberries, heavily taxed items such as gin and tobacco were sneaked underground to avoid making these additional payments.

Perhaps the most famous lodberrie is the building which was used as the home of detective Jimmy Perez in the 'Shetland' detective series. The character was created by author Ann Cleeves, and made even more famous when her stories were dramatised and made into a BBC television series. It has now run for nine seasons, with a 10th to be filmed in 2025.

Unsurprisingly, the famous lodberrie has become one of the most popular places to visit in Lerwick and you can easily imagine Jimmy is about to walk out the door!

It is incredible how much of our history is visible as you stroll through town and after reading Douglas Sinclair’s book, that history feels even closer.