Shetland is full of fascinating historical sites, many with interesting stories. One of the most curious is the Smuggler's Cave in Burra, where you can descend into the cave that is said to have been a secret route into the island. The walk there is one of our regular blogger Catherine's favourite Shetland adventures.
One of the things I love about Shetland folklore is how the stories are linked to places. Fantastical events are tied to real people and locations as these tales weave through time.
Smugglers and their adventures evading law enforcement are a common theme and many coastal locations have stories relating to these illicit activities. One of the most impressive smuggler's caves is just a few miles from my house and is a place I return to again and again.
This circular walk begins at Meal beach, where turquoise water and golden sand give this place a tropical appearance.
Continuing along the coastline, you encounter rugged ground by the water’s edge. Closer inspection reveals these rocks are not haphazard patterns formed through natural processes but are distinctly circular. These are the remains of Bronze Age houses.
Next to these ancient dwellings are some more recent archaeology. A wooden post by a slight hollow in the banks is a boat noost, a place where fishing boats safely rested above the high tide mark.
A steep climb is rewarded with an incredible view back to Meal, across the colourful village of Hamnavoe and over the water a patchwork of small islands to the west. From here you can see the cave, a deep hollow where an area of weaker rock was eroded by the power of Atlantic storms.
The sea entrance is 200m from this opening and involves an eight metre climb down a weathered rope ladder, whose slippery steps require careful navigation. Please be aware that it can be awkward accessing the cave and you must take care.
If you are fit enough, it is well worth the effort as your eyes adjust to the darkness to reveal a large cavern.
This is a place where history seems closer, the boundaries between then and now somehow more permeable. A place to imagine who might have been before and how their lives were.
Local stories tell of gin and tobacco smuggled here, hidden from tax collectors. The cave also provided a refuge from the pressgang, who forcibly conscripted men into the navy. Coastal and island communities suffered greatly at their hands and people would find ingenious places to conceal those at risk of conscription.
The smuggler's cave was one such location. It was close to the village so could be reached quickly but is very difficult to find for anyone without detailed local knowledge.
Exploring the cave nowadays, you can witness sunlight transform the waves to turquoise before they enter the darkness. The echo of their movement booming and reverberating, joining the spectral cry of seabirds filling the air and creating an otherworldly feeling.
This is a place where history seems closer, the boundaries between then and now somehow more permeable. A place to imagine who might have been before and how their lives were.
Returning to the surface, the walk continues to the pretty fishing village of Hamnavoe. The sheltered marina is filled with colourful boats and in good weather, it is a hive of activity with as local fisherman land their catch.
On a clear day, there are spectacular views over to the island of Foula. The rich fishing grounds between Burra and Foula drew many people to live and work here and it is the evidence of these lives, past and present, that make this short walk magical.
With 1,700 miles of spectacular coastline to explore, Shetland offers some of the best walking in northern Europe. Click here to discover more and plan your next route.